Thursday 17 June 2010

Thursday 17th June 2010 - Sarria To Portomarin


Had a late meal last night. It was really good value for 8.50€. Calamari for starters; Hake and chips for main; and Santiago Tart for dessert; plus a bottle of red wine! Couldn't finish the wine which is just as well as I was up at 6 o'clock this morning after a restless night.

Rua Maior In Sarria
I had bought myself a staff for my Camino and after buying some water, fruit and a cereal bar, I was off at 7 o'clock.


It was a beautiful morning and a steep start up Rua Maior from Sarria saw me quickly working up a sweat. The Camino was busy and soon I was getting into the way of saying 'Hola! Buen Camino!' to all and sundry. Any thoughts of not finding my way quickly disappeared - the yellow arrows and sight of fellow pilgrims were to be reliable pointers as to where to go. Tree-lined paths and quiet roads were my introduction to the Camino. Any climbs were modest thank goodness.


Near Mercado De Sarra

The morning passed at a relaxed pace, stopping every now and then to take in a view. Not far beyond Mercado de Sarra, I stopped to take a photo of a lovely scene of a raised stone pathway beside a stream. I turned at the approach of a couple and asked the gentleman if he would oblige and include myself in the scene. This he duly did. He and his partner (his sister-in-law it turned out) came from Vancouver in Canada and had walked all the way from St Jean Pied de Port - the beginning of the Camino Frances. I expressed my admiration at their effort, and for the next few kilometres I struck up a conversation with his sister-in-law Julie. Robert and she had fallen into a routine whereby he would walk on ahead whilst checking once in a while that she was still close behind. This approach suited them both as it gave them time to be with their own thoughts and when together they could talk with friends they had met or have a refreshment or something to eat. It worked for them. Just after the 100 km post, we stopped for one such refreshment and also to get my Credencial stamped for the first time since Sarria. I now felt like I had truly started! It was official, I was a Caminante!! Julie and Robert set off once more and I was to continue to see them on and off for the rest of the day.

The next section was very muddy in places and it was necessary to take drier alternative routes. It slowed the pace of many pilgrims, especially those on bicycles!!



Christina The Donkey Being Uncooperative!




View Of Portomarin Across Embalse De Belsar
The day began to heat up as I approached my destination Portomarin and the last 4 kilometres or so took an age to complete. Christina the donkey and her two pals took my attention for a short while and made me forget my aches and pains.

Approaching Portomarin, I experienced the strongest, most gut-wrenching stink imagineable from a farmer spreading silage (muck) on his fields. It caught in the throat and almost induced vomit there and then. It was all I could do to try and breathe through my mouth. But even that had the effect of the feeling that I was actually eating the stuff. The back of my throat burned. I met up with Julie having the same problems and she had to agree. We were both glad to leave that section behind! The air around Portomarin itself was much pleasanter I have to say.

Reaching Portomarin, it was straight to the Hotel Villa Jardin and a lovely bath to soak in for a while.

I decided to have my meal early and had a pleasant Menu del Dia in a nice sunny terrace on the village square followed by a little siesta on the balcony of my room - no slummin it for me pal!!


Embalse De Belsar From My Hotel Balcony
I think I will sleep better tonight. At least I hope so, as it is another early start tomorrow!

No comments: