Saturday 19th June 2010 - Palas De Rei To Arzua

Met Steve last night at a bar with internet access and he told me he was meeting up with Julie and Robert later that evening for a drink. Joined them after updating my blog and had a good natter while having a nice drink in the sun. Dot 'phoned me with news on the sale of my house and it looks promising - fingers crossed!

Finished off the evening with a few beers before retiring for another early night and the prospect of another early start.

Left the Hotel at 6.40. It was the best hotel so far and nothing was too much for them. Set out after being pointed the way by two friends here!

Do you Know The Way To Santiago?



In the early stages the Camino had a nasty habit of making short detours off the main road only to return a hundred metres or so further on. This annoyingly repeated itself before the Camino struck off on its own. It soon developed into a hard slog up muddy tracks and across many streams by way of huge stepping stones. I began to develop a problem with my feet and thought that blisters were beginning to develop. I put it down to socks that probably weren't properly dried. So stopping just before Mato-Casanova to change them seemed to do the trick and soon I was on the way again.

I collected another sello at Mato-Casanova itself before stopping for breakfast at Cato near Lobreiro. It was here I met Mario and Jeff from San Francisco who were struggling somewhat in the heat. Mario was applying some ointment to his aches and pains - Sore No More it was called - which he assured me was a magic potion. It smelt similar to Deep Heat rub. Just as I was getting ready to leave, I welcomed Robert and Julie arriving for their rest and some refreshment. Stamping my Credencial and wishing everyone "Buen Camino", I set off once again.

A short distance further and the Church of Santa Maria was an excuse for a rest in the cool and lovely interior. It was here I met some Swiss folk that I had been talking to two nights before in Portomarin. Its amazing how friendships develop on the Camino!

Horreo

Medieval Bridge At Furelos

Furelos Main Street

The weather was glorious and the scenery was to match. Quaint hamlets with lovely farms and cottages merged into one another as the morning wore on and I approached Melide.

Occasionally my sore feet would return. It wasn't blisters - it was just painful nerve endings I think?! Sometimes it disappeared only to come back again. I put it down to the type of surface. Some parts of the Camino were paved in what could be described as a flagstone material - and this and asphalt surfaces made the pain worse.

I plodded on to a lovely village of Furelos with its picturesque medieval bridge and lovely Church of San Juan. A few kilometres further and I was in Melide. I had promised myself to try some pulpo (octopus) from one of the many Pulperios but it was an adventure too far!

My destination, Arzua, was still 14 kms away and my hotel for the night was about 1km beyond that. My feet were feeling worse. Boente and the Church of Santiago provided some respite but the long descent to Ribadiso nearly brought tears to my eyes. Thankfully I had a staff to help ease the pressure and pain!

My hotel reservation was being held 'til 3pm and I was determined to press on, however painful it was. The climb up to Arzua was in full sun and by this time I had finished my water. I knew from my bus journey to Lugo that the Hotel Suiza was on the other side of Arzua on the main road to Santiago but I kept on the Camino which ran parallel and luckily struck off just beyond the Hotel itself. A short walk across and back along the main road brought me to that night's accommodation. It was a hot and relieved Caminante that walked into bar of the Hotel Suiza to find.........Steve......having a wine and cigar, and looking totally relaxed!!!!! We had a few jars before going our separate ways for the evening.

I set off back to the town for a meal. It was the most disappointing I have had in a long time. In fact Arzua was pretty disappointing! I decided to go to the Pilgrim's Mass before heading back to the hotel. It was really busy with folk and at the end the priest invited any pilgrims forward to be blessed. At least I think that's what he said, and, prompted by the lady next me, I was pushed out along with others to the front of the altar. The priest asked where everyone was from, and answers were shouted out from various groups and when  he asked for others, I blurted out, "Escocia!" He was a little taken aback and wondered where my kilt was. It brought a laugh out of everyone. Later, as we were exiting, a gentleman from Virginia introduced himself and asked where exactly I was from. I told him Glasgow just to make things easier. He replied that he was from Virginia and that he hoped I was enjoying my Camino. I had to agree that I was enjoying myself thoroughly. We wished each other well and went our separate ways.

(It later turns out he was a Professor of Medieval Spanish Studies from The University of Virginia. His name was George Greenia. Toronto Steve told me all this later, as their paths had crossed many times on the Camino. Professor Greenia it transpires is an expert on the history of pilgrimage and of the Camino in particular. It would have been very interesting to have found out more.)

I set off back for the hotel and a little drink before retiring.

Only?! 20 kms tomorrow. I may even get up late!!

I am trying a new design for the blog but I haven't got time to finish it. Hope it looks alright?