Friday 18 June 2010

Friday 18th June 2010 - Portomarin To Palas De Rei

Misty Morning Start

It was a few beers last night in the village square, where Steve - another Canadian from Toronto - introduced himself as he saw me reading my Camino guide - identical to his. I spent an interesting hour in his company chatting about this and that; the Camino; our lives; the world's problems; and the lack of idiots on the Camino (Steve's words not mine!). A quick visit to the supermercado was a precursor (whit a great wurd that is!!!) to an early night. Thankfully it was a much better sleep than the night before and it was an early start once again at 7 o'clock.


Ahm Fadin Away Tae A Shadow So Ah Um

Some Mounted Pilgrims



It was a long, steep, unending ascent through the early morning haze, broken as the morning wore on by an increasingly warm sun and accompanied by the sound of an amazing massed frog chorus near Toxibo (I could say this exceptionally long sentence in Spanish but I can't be arsed!). I stopped for a break in Gonzar for a sandwich and coffee at the Cafe-Bar Gonzar. It was here that I came across the first pilgrims I'd seen on horseback. After stamping my Credencial with another sello, I set off once more following the now familiar flechas amarillas.





The day continued to become warmer and warmer as I walked through lovely countryside and beautiful little villages with the occasional cafe and bar. Just beyond Hospital de la Cruz, I noticed I was being passed by a pilgrim I recognised from the bus journeys from Santiago to Sarria. (What had first brought him to my attention was the Scotland Rugby top he had been wearing and also the large amount of luggage that accompanied him.) He was still wearing the top but of the luggage there was no sign - just a small day pack. It turned out that he was an Australian (the rugby top he had bought in Santiago because it was long-sleeved and he wanted some protection from the sun) and his luggage was being taken on by a courier service from day-to-day. We introduced ourselves (his name was Ray and he came from Adelaide) and we chatted for a few kilometres before he set off at a far brisker pace than I could maintain. Well I had an 8kg rucksack and shorter legs!!!!! We were to meet up later on, when I stopped at Casa Ma Luz near Eirexe. We had another chat over a drink and then stamped our Credencials before continuing on our separate ways.

A Horse's Bum!!




The pilgrims on horseback, who seemed to be making many stops, continued to make more appearances as the day progressed. Perhaps the heat was taking its toll on their mounts?


Horse Having A Rest
The last few kilometres once again took an age to complete and as I neared Palas de Rei, it seemed that a school sports day or school outing was in progress at a camp site / holiday park. To me. it was too hot to be indulging in those kind of activities but it wasn't putting the kids off one bit!!! They were thoroughly enjoying themselves!!!


Church Tower In Palas De Rei

It was a sweating and aching figure that booked into the Hotel Benilde, Palas de Rei around 2 pm. The usual routine followed - laundry, a shower, a change of clothing, followed by a meal with some wine. Scant reward after such an effort but I aim to make up for it later this evening!

Church In Palas De Rei

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