Wednesday 23rd June 2010 - Lunch At The Parador And Last Wander About

The Catedral

A new day. Another hot, sunny day. Paid the big man another visit, seeing it was so quiet. Having my breakfast on the Praza Quintana, when who should walk by, but Toronto Steve! He joined me and we had another natter about various folk we had both met. He told me that Julie hadn't managed to finish her walk and unable to go any further she had to take a bus for the last stretch. I felt so sorry for her - walking all the way from St Jean only to break down with the finish in sight. I hope I get a chance to meet up with both Robert and her before they set off to Vancouver. I ended exchanging contact details with Steve before saying goodbye once again.

Saint James Himself

Also met again Jeff and Mario fae California who were including the Camino in a short tour of Europe. They were off to Barcelona next and then Madrid before going back to the U.S. of A. Did the usual exchanging of contacts once again.

Lunch At The Parador

As midday approached, I made my way to the back door of the Parador and joined another four pilgrims for free lunch. We were shown to the kitchen, where we collected our 3 course lunch and wine to be enjoyed in a pleasant wee room overlooking a peaceful courtyard.

Words Fail Me!!!!

We had an interesting hour talking the Walk and getting to know one another - one Scot, one Korean, one German, one Frenchman and one Spaniard. Brilliant!

A wee siesta after lunch was followed by a further wander about and a chance to search out wee nooks and crannies that I had somehow missed. I returned to the Café Casino for some classical musical entertainment before I spent a little while watching England v Slovenia - but this was spoiled by a running commentary from the first idiot on the Camino that I had come across.

Looking Out Of The Café Casino

I left to do some shopping and then had in mind to have a wee visit once again to Sant Yago for a glass of wine and a wee tapas. But I couldn't leave Santiago without visiting once again the Gato Negro. And it was there I had some cockles with a glass of white before retiring to my hotel for the night.

The blog is nearly over. I hope to add more when I have more time and I have had a chance to reflect. So hope it is not too maudlin. If it is, I apologise before hand but I don't care!!!! I have thoroughly enjoyed myself.

Click here to view My Gallery, then click the sideshow icon.  Look in too - if you want - to the blog for San Sebastian - Y Car-L ya Basque!!!

BYE!!!

Tuesday 22nd June 2010 - A Restful Day In Santiago de Compostela

Had a really good sleep and a long lie-in this morning. Taking a leisurely time getting a shower and dressed was a luxury. First stop was a little cafe / bar for chocolate con churros. The chocolate was thick and yummy! Next stop was the Catedral and then the tomb of the man himself, wi his two pals Athanasius and sumbdy else (ahve forgotten who??). It was a wait of about an hour for this, and that was followed by a long, hot walk to the Estacion - just to get its whereabouts for my departure on Thursday.





The University Quadrangle

Back up to the old town then and I had a wee wander about - the University; the wee side streets and their tapas bars and restaurants etc. To get away from the heat, I popped into the Sant Yago tapas bar for a nice platter of chorizo + queso + vino tinto + cafe solo. Lovely it was!

A Wee Combo Givin It Laldy!!!



I met some Swiss friends from the Camino and we got chatting about things and were all congratulating one another, and talking of our plans. They are catching a bus tomorrow and visiting Finisterre for the day. A day trip sounds good, but I have decided not to bother going to O Grove tomorrow as there is still so much to see here in Santiago. I need to rest still and savour the town's offerings - food and drink etc.

Taking a siesta this afternoon on ma wee balcony / terrace with its great view of the Catedral. Hope I don't fall asleep and get burned!



The Catedral From Paséo de Léons



After a siesta, I spent the early evening having a walk around the Alameda. There were some glorious views. I finished off with a large cone (dos bolos) and a bottle of cool water. It was great people watching away from the tourist throngs.

The Catedral From The Alameda

The rest of the evening was spent tapasing (is that a verb?). A great wee place was the Gato Negro but there were so many to name. I tried to keep away from the tourist and perigrino haunts. One place I especially liked was the Cafe Casino which had some classical music performed by, I would imagine, some students from the Santiago Conservatoire (is that how you spell it? - I know someone who will post a correction!!!!!). The introductions were way over my head but I applauded nevertheless!





The evening was finished off by watching the second half of a football match between Greece and Argentina. It was a good game, made better by not having to listen to English commentators!

Monday 21st June 2010 - O Pino To Santiago de Compostela

Woke up early and couldn´t get to sleep again. I had been saying to Robert and Julie that I wasn't bothered when I would arrive in Santiago de Compostela but I ended up getting up anyway and left the hotel at 5.20!!!! Yes, that's right!!! 5.20 am!!!

It was still dark and I had to put my torch on walking back into Arca. Nearly died of a heart attack when a cat went crazy on being caught in the torch's beam. I didn't know what it was at first!! Scared the life out of me!

The streets were virtually deserted and on leaving the town, I wasn't too sure where the Camino was until I spied a figure in the same situation. Together we eventually found our way through a forest. Our paths had crossed many times before and we knew each other although we could not speak each other's languages. He talked Spanish and I sometimes can talk English!

We were joined by someone else - three wise men in the dark! He talked a great deal before enquiring why I had nothing to say (I think?). I replied that I didn´t understand and that I came from Scotland. He seemed happy with that explanation.

As the sun rose he carried on ahead leaving me and my new pal to communicate as best we could. I then had to motion him to go on as my feet were once more beginning to be very painful and slowing me down. He waved in farewell and disappeared off - leaving me to hobble on alone (Michael - no pals!).

At The City Limits

I was to eventually meet up once again with him just after Lavacolla where he had stopped for a coffee. I joined him and he gave me a cereal bar to help my energy levels. Ray passed as we sat deep in conversation!!?!  But once more I had to leave my friend and bid him farewell and to struggle on to Monte del Gozo - the Mount of Joy!!! The way I was feeling was far from joyful!

Papal Monument On Monte Del Gozo

The walk into Santiago itself was never ending and the noise from civilisation again was quiet disturbing. At one point I was heartened by a group passing by urging me on and shouting "Ultreya!!!" It was only later that I realised the significance of this.

The End Of The Road

Wi The Completed Credencial

I was determined to get my Compostela before Mass at midday and in this I was successful but the agony of my feet continued during Mass as I had to stand until its conclusion with the swinging of the huge thurible or Butafumeiro! It was quite awesome as an American might say. In fact there was probably some American in the congregation saying just that! It was also quiet emotional and not for the first time this Camino, and for no reason, I felt my eyes water........ah don't know why?

Craning To See The Butefumeiro

Click here to view the Butefumeiro in action.

After the Archbishop and his pals recessed, I just had to sit down and, it was while I was crying once again, (from the pain of my feet) that Ray stopped for a chat. We went for a coffee in a rather splendid establishment complete with grand piano and formal waiters - very nice. Ray had been in Santiago before with his wife and was more familiar with its layout than I was. We left each other promising to meet for a meal at seven while I found my hotel for the next three nights. It has the most gorgeous view from the balcony as you can see!



The View From My Bedroom

A long bath and a change of clothes but this time I am getting Laundry service to do my clothes (such as they are). Why not??

A drink is now called for and then that meal with Ray, and anyone else we know and meet up with, for that matter. The meal and conversation were very nice and before we knew it, the Camino was taking its effect. Exchanging details, we said our farewells and made our separate ways.

Havin A Wee Swally Wi Ray



On the way back to my hotel and hearing the football on, I stopped to watch something called the World Cup and saw Spain beat sumbdy. Met Hortwig, a German guy who had walked fae Irun tae Finisterre! Great stuff pal!

Back to the hotel and bed. Night! Night!

Sunday 20th June 2010 - Arzua To O Pino

A long lie-in today. Didn't set off 'til 7.20!!! I was looking forward to today's section of the Camino - it was short, shaded and fairly flat! Another beautiful day and the Camino was busy with a lot of people joining with day packs and going speeding by power walking!!! My sore feet were no more (it seemed) and there was a lightness in my step!!!!

Takin The Kye Tae The Fields



A stop at Calzada for breakfast afforded me the opportunity to strike up a conversation with Klaus from Bavaria. He was an optician, and had left his wife and family at home and had come on the Camino for no reason other than, he enjoyed walking! It was a very busy cafe and getting the old Credencial stamped once more, I was soon on my way again.

Memorial To Guillermo Watt

 It was getting hot by the time I reached Meson La Equipa and I decided a beer was in order. (It is just behind here, on the Camino itself, that I came across a memorial to a pilgrim who had died here on the 25th August 1993. Guillermo Watt was his name and bronze boots and a plaque mark the spot.). Just as I was finishing off, Klaus approached and chastised me for drinking so early in the day!! I hurried off in shame!!

Memorial Stone To Guillermo Watt

A Shady Glade

My spirits? were high, as I continued on my way and again struck up a conversation with some fellow Caminantes - a Danish couple this time. It is like the United Nations on the Camino!! It makes you ashamed, however, that many Germans, Danes etc are so fluent in English and you know next to nothing of their language apart from the basics.........in the case of Danish, bugger all!!!

Another refreshment stop was called for in the searing heat, and with Klaus' voice echoing in my head, I ordered a Coke and spent some time with Ray - catching up on each other's tales. He was heading for Lavacolla - some 12 kms beyond Arca - it was going to be a long, hot day for him! I wished him well, knowing I only had about 4 kms through the eucalyptus woods to the Hotel O Pino and a lovely comfortable room.

Ubiquitous Eucalyptus!!

Even after taking my time and having three refreshments stops, I arrived at the hotel earlier than I had planned. No sign of Steve, who had booked in to the same place. After the usual - yes, you have guessed it - it was a short walk into Arca and a meal. I spent a whole two hours taking my time over a three course with a bottle of white wine and coffee. Bliss!!!

While there, Robert arrived looking for accommodation for himself and his sister-in-law Julie. They passed on promising to come back and join me later. They haven't so far and I hope they have not too many problems as Julie was looking exhausted and obviously in much pain as it was!
Looking forward to tomorrow and the walk into Santiago de Compostela. Will be in no hurry to get there for midday as so many will. I will take my time and get my Compostela etc on Tuesday at my leisure.

Tried Skype Iain (Gibson) and couldn't get through. Will try again now I know what I am doing. Likewise Dot and Anne when I get time. Nice to know that the weather in Scotland is so nice too!

(By the way if there are spelling mistakes I apologise. Being limited for time mistakes will happen, and if I use spellcheck every word is spelled wrong anyway as a Spanish dictionary is used on the computer. OK! So my well-educated readers don't complain!)

Saturday 19th June 2010 - Palas De Rei To Arzua

Met Steve last night at a bar with internet access and he told me he was meeting up with Julie and Robert later that evening for a drink. Joined them after updating my blog and had a good natter while having a nice drink in the sun. Dot 'phoned me with news on the sale of my house and it looks promising - fingers crossed!

Finished off the evening with a few beers before retiring for another early night and the prospect of another early start.

Left the Hotel at 6.40. It was the best hotel so far and nothing was too much for them. Set out after being pointed the way by two friends here!

Do you Know The Way To Santiago?



In the early stages the Camino had a nasty habit of making short detours off the main road only to return a hundred metres or so further on. This annoyingly repeated itself before the Camino struck off on its own. It soon developed into a hard slog up muddy tracks and across many streams by way of huge stepping stones. I began to develop a problem with my feet and thought that blisters were beginning to develop. I put it down to socks that probably weren't properly dried. So stopping just before Mato-Casanova to change them seemed to do the trick and soon I was on the way again.

I collected another sello at Mato-Casanova itself before stopping for breakfast at Cato near Lobreiro. It was here I met Mario and Jeff from San Francisco who were struggling somewhat in the heat. Mario was applying some ointment to his aches and pains - Sore No More it was called - which he assured me was a magic potion. It smelt similar to Deep Heat rub. Just as I was getting ready to leave, I welcomed Robert and Julie arriving for their rest and some refreshment. Stamping my Credencial and wishing everyone "Buen Camino", I set off once again.

A short distance further and the Church of Santa Maria was an excuse for a rest in the cool and lovely interior. It was here I met some Swiss folk that I had been talking to two nights before in Portomarin. Its amazing how friendships develop on the Camino!

Horreo

Medieval Bridge At Furelos

Furelos Main Street

The weather was glorious and the scenery was to match. Quaint hamlets with lovely farms and cottages merged into one another as the morning wore on and I approached Melide.

Occasionally my sore feet would return. It wasn't blisters - it was just painful nerve endings I think?! Sometimes it disappeared only to come back again. I put it down to the type of surface. Some parts of the Camino were paved in what could be described as a flagstone material - and this and asphalt surfaces made the pain worse.

I plodded on to a lovely village of Furelos with its picturesque medieval bridge and lovely Church of San Juan. A few kilometres further and I was in Melide. I had promised myself to try some pulpo (octopus) from one of the many Pulperios but it was an adventure too far!

My destination, Arzua, was still 14 kms away and my hotel for the night was about 1km beyond that. My feet were feeling worse. Boente and the Church of Santiago provided some respite but the long descent to Ribadiso nearly brought tears to my eyes. Thankfully I had a staff to help ease the pressure and pain!

My hotel reservation was being held 'til 3pm and I was determined to press on, however painful it was. The climb up to Arzua was in full sun and by this time I had finished my water. I knew from my bus journey to Lugo that the Hotel Suiza was on the other side of Arzua on the main road to Santiago but I kept on the Camino which ran parallel and luckily struck off just beyond the Hotel itself. A short walk across and back along the main road brought me to that night's accommodation. It was a hot and relieved Caminante that walked into bar of the Hotel Suiza to find.........Steve......having a wine and cigar, and looking totally relaxed!!!!! We had a few jars before going our separate ways for the evening.

I set off back to the town for a meal. It was the most disappointing I have had in a long time. In fact Arzua was pretty disappointing! I decided to go to the Pilgrim's Mass before heading back to the hotel. It was really busy with folk and at the end the priest invited any pilgrims forward to be blessed. At least I think that's what he said, and, prompted by the lady next me, I was pushed out along with others to the front of the altar. The priest asked where everyone was from, and answers were shouted out from various groups and when  he asked for others, I blurted out, "Escocia!" He was a little taken aback and wondered where my kilt was. It brought a laugh out of everyone. Later, as we were exiting, a gentleman from Virginia introduced himself and asked where exactly I was from. I told him Glasgow just to make things easier. He replied that he was from Virginia and that he hoped I was enjoying my Camino. I had to agree that I was enjoying myself thoroughly. We wished each other well and went our separate ways.

(It later turns out he was a Professor of Medieval Spanish Studies from The University of Virginia. His name was George Greenia. Toronto Steve told me all this later, as their paths had crossed many times on the Camino. Professor Greenia it transpires is an expert on the history of pilgrimage and of the Camino in particular. It would have been very interesting to have found out more.)

I set off back for the hotel and a little drink before retiring.

Only?! 20 kms tomorrow. I may even get up late!!

I am trying a new design for the blog but I haven't got time to finish it. Hope it looks alright?

Friday 18th June 2010 - Portomarin To Palas De Rei

Misty Morning Start

It was a few beers last night in the village square, where Steve - another Canadian from Toronto - introduced himself as he saw me reading my Camino guide - identical to his. I spent an interesting hour in his company chatting about this and that; the Camino; our lives; the world's problems; and the lack of idiots on the Camino (Steve's words not mine!). A quick visit to the supermercado was a precursor (whit a great wurd that is!!!) to an early night. Thankfully it was a much better sleep than the night before and it was an early start once again at 7 o'clock.



Ahm Fadin Away Tae A Shadow So Ah Um

Some Mounted Pilgrims



It was a long, steep, unending ascent through the early morning haze, broken as the morning wore on by an increasingly warm sun and accompanied by the sound of an amazing massed frog chorus near Toxibo (I could say this exceptionally long sentence in Spanish but I can't be arsed!). I stopped for a break in Gonzar for a sandwich and coffee at the Cafe-Bar Gonzar. It was here that I came across the first pilgrims I'd seen on horseback. After stamping my Credencial with another sello, I set off once more following the now familiar flechas amarillas.

The day continued to become warmer and warmer as I walked through lovely countryside and beautiful little villages with the occasional cafe and bar. Just beyond Hospital de la Cruz, I noticed I was being passed by a pilgrim I recognised from the bus journeys from Santiago to Sarria. (What had first brought him to my attention was the Scotland Rugby top he had been wearing and also the large amount of luggage that accompanied him.) He was still wearing the top but of the luggage there was no sign - just a small day pack. It turned out that he was an Australian (the rugby top he had bought in Santiago because it was long-sleeved and he wanted some protection from the sun) and his luggage was being taken on by a courier service from day-to-day. We introduced ourselves (his name was Ray and he came from Adelaide) and we chatted for a few kilometres before he set off at a far brisker pace than I could maintain. Well I had an 8kg rucksack and shorter legs!!!!! We were to meet up later on, when I stopped at Casa Ma Luz near Eirexe. We had another chat over a drink and then stamped our Credencials before continuing on our separate ways.

A Horse's Bum!!



The pilgrims on horseback, who seemed to be making many stops, continued to make more appearances as the day progressed. Perhaps the heat was taking its toll on their mounts?

Horse Having A Rest

The last few kilometres once again took an age to complete and as I neared Palas de Rei, it seemed that a school sports day or school outing was in progress at a camp site / holiday park. To me. it was too hot to be indulging in those kind of activities but it wasn't putting the kids off one bit!!! They were thoroughly enjoying themselves!!!

Church Tower In Palas De Rei

It was a sweating and aching figure that booked into the Hotel Benilde, Palas de Rei around 2 pm. The usual routine followed - laundry, a shower, a change of clothing, followed by a meal with some wine. Scant reward after such an effort but I aim to make up for it later this evening!

Church In Palas De Rei

Thursday 17th June 2010 - Sarria To Portomarin

Had a late meal last night. It was really good value for 8.50€. Calamari for starters; Hake and chips for main; and Santiago Tart for dessert; plus a bottle of red wine! Couldn't finish the wine which is just as well as I was up at 6 o'clock this morning after a restless night.

Rua Maior In Sarria

I had bought myself a staff for my Camino and after buying some water, fruit and a cereal bar, I was off at 7 o'clock.

It was a beautiful morning and a steep start up Rua Maior from Sarria saw me quickly working up a sweat. The Camino was busy and soon I was getting into the way of saying 'Hola! Buen Camino!' to all and sundry. Any thoughts of not finding my way quickly disappeared - the yellow arrows and sight of fellow pilgrims were to be reliable pointers as to where to go. Tree-lined paths and quiet roads were my introduction to the Camino. Any climbs were modest thank goodness.

Near Mercado De Sarra

The morning passed at a relaxed pace, stopping every now and then to take in a view. Not far beyond Mercado de Sarra, I stopped to take a photo of a lovely scene of a raised stone pathway beside a stream. I turned at the approach of a couple and asked the gentleman if he would oblige and include myself in the scene. This he duly did. He and his partner (his sister-in-law it turned out) came from Vancouver in Canada and had walked all the way from St Jean Pied de Port - the beginning of the Camino Frances. I expressed my admiration at their effort, and for the next few kilometres I struck up a conversation with his sister-in-law Julie. Robert and she had fallen into a routine whereby he would walk on ahead whilst checking once in a while that she was still close behind. This approach suited them both as it gave them time to be with their own thoughts and when together they could talk with friends they had met or have a refreshment or something to eat. It worked for them. Just after the 100 km post, we stopped for one such refreshment and also to get my Credencial stamped for the first time since Sarria. I now felt like I had truly started! It was official, I was a Caminante!! Julie and Robert set off once more and I was to continue to see them on and off for the rest of the day.

The next section was very muddy in places and it was necessary to take drier alternative routes. It slowed the pace of many pilgrims, especially those on bicycles!!

Christina The Donkey Being Uncooperative!

View Of Portomarin Across Embalse De Belsar

The day began to heat up as I approached my destination Portomarin and the last 4 kilometres or so took an age to complete. Christina the donkey and her two pals took my attention for a short while and made me forget my aches and pains.

Approaching Portomarin, I experienced the strongest, most gut-wrenching stink imagineable from a farmer spreading silage (muck) on his fields. It caught in the throat and almost induced vomit there and then. It was all I could do to try and breathe through my mouth. But even that had the effect of the feeling that I was actually eating the stuff. The back of my throat burned. I met up with Julie having the same problems and she had to agree. We were both glad to leave that section behind! The air around Portomarin itself was much pleasanter I have to say.

Reaching Portomarin, it was straight to the Hotel Villa Jardin and a lovely bath to soak in for a while.

I decided to have my meal early and had a pleasant Menu del Dia in a nice sunny terrace on the village square followed by a little siesta on the balcony of my room - no slummin it for me pal!!

Embalse De Belsar From My Hotel Balcony

I think I will sleep better tonight. At least I hope so, as it is another early start tomorrow!